| Mark Squires |
88 |
The 2002 HOCHAR PERE ET FILS is a blend of Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carignan, with a small amount of Grenache, late released in 2007. It was the most surprising wine of this trio. A more accessible type of wine from this well known winery, it seemed rather too sweet on opening, and something I somewhat dismissed initially for that reason. Some aeration answered all questions. It was rescued from simplicity by some gamey notes on the nose that gave it a touch of complexity. It also has a bright demeanor and some tannin, all of which made it seem more serious, ageworthy and interesting. As it aired out, the sweet fruit blended gradually into the whole and it became quite lovely. In terms of fruit, this already seems reasonably mature, but it still has some tannic power on the finish, while being less astringent than its big brothers. The gamey notes referenced are relatively modest on this wine, I should note, compared to its big brothers reviewed this issue. Here, it comes closer to being a nuance rather than a dominant feature as this is in a more modern, straightforward style, but in a very good way. It most certainly will not age as well as its big brothers—come back in 10 years and the answers will be different-- but it likely will l have more universal appeal, and it is half the price. Drink now-2013.
Maturity: 2016+ •
Reviewed: February 2010 • Source: eRobertParker.com
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